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How to Test a Subwoofer

The quickest way to test a subwoofer is to play a low test tone (around 40–60 Hz) and a slow bass sweep through your system and listen at your seat. If the sub is silent, the problem is almost always power, connection or a setting in your receiver or soundbar rather than a broken subwoofer.

Quick check: run our free Bass & Subwoofer Test to hear the problem for yourself before and after each fix.

Step 1: Play a bass test tone

  1. Open our bass & subwoofer test on a device connected to your system.
  2. Start with a low volume and press 50 Hz. You should hear and feel a deep, steady hum from the subwoofer.
  3. Run the Subwoofer sweep (15 → 120 Hz). Listen for where the bass starts, any rattles, and spots where it becomes much louder or quieter.
  4. Put your hand on the subwoofer cabinet or near the port. You should feel it move air at low frequencies.

Phone and laptop speakers cannot play these tones, so make sure the sound is actually going to your sound system (HDMI, optical, Bluetooth or a cable to the receiver).

Step 2: Subwoofer not working? Check power first

Step 3: Check the connection

Try a different RCA cable – they fail more often than subwoofers do.

Step 4: Check receiver or soundbar settings

Step 5: Set the subwoofer level and phase

  1. Sit in your normal listening position and play the 50 Hz tone or music with steady bass.
  2. Adjust the sub volume so the bass blends with the main speakers – you should hear deep bass, but it should not be obvious where it comes from.
  3. Switch the phase between 0° and 180° (or turn the dial) while playing a tone near the crossover, around 80 Hz. Keep the setting that sounds louder and fuller at your seat.

Step 6: Check placement

Room acoustics cause big peaks and dips in bass. If the sweep shows a booming note or a near-silent spot, move the subwoofer. Corners give the most bass but also the most boom. A popular trick is the "subwoofer crawl": put the sub at your seat, play the sweep, crawl around the room to find where the bass sounds smoothest, and place the sub there.

Step 7: Test the driver itself

If the sub has power, a good connection and correct settings but still makes no sound or only buzzes, the driver or the built-in amplifier may be faulty. For passive and car subwoofers, disconnect the sub and measure the voice coil with a multimeter: a 4 Ω driver should read around 3–3.5 Ω. "OL" or infinite means the coil is open (blown). Dual voice coil subs have two pairs of terminals – test each pair. Read more in our blown speaker guide.

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Frequently asked questions

What frequency should I use to test a subwoofer?

Start with 40–60 Hz. Most home subwoofers play down to about 25–35 Hz; car and small subs often stop around 35–45 Hz. A sweep from 15 to 120 Hz shows the whole range.

Why can I hear my subwoofer only at high volume?

The sub level is too low, the crossover is set too low, or the sub is in a dip caused by room acoustics. Raise the level, set the crossover to 80 Hz and try moving the sub.

How do I know if my subwoofer is blown?

A blown subwoofer buzzes, rattles or distorts at moderate volume, scrapes when you gently press the cone, or measures "OL" on a multimeter.

Should the subwoofer crossover be 80 Hz?

80 Hz is a widely used starting point that works for most systems. Use a lower setting only if your main speakers have strong bass of their own.